As a part of our mammoth Northern European Tour, no trip to Finland would be complete without a sauna and getting into a frozen lake at sub-zero temperatures!

Apukka resort

We decided that the sauna and ice experience would be a bit more special if we chose to do it at Apukka resort, north of the Arctic Circle. The location is a five-star resort that is famouse for their glass-topped cabins. These rooms have a window to the sky that lets the residents lay in bed and watch the Northern Lights from the comfort of their own room.

The Apukka resort is just a few minutes north of Rovaniemi, and although there is a public bus €3.5 each and resort shuttle bus for €8 each, we decided to get an Uber for €40 so that we would arrive on time.

Sauna

We arrived at the lakeside location, where there are three sauna cabins, each with their own landing to the lake. The arctic ice had been cleared to make a small pool in front of each sauna cabin.

The compact timber cabins have a small changing room (where we were supplied with thick fluffy gowns, towels and slippers), and then the log-heated sauna itself.

Our guide explained how to do the process, with a ten minute sauna followed by one minute in the ice pool, repeated four times. He told us about safety, how to allow our bodies to cool down from the sauna before soaking in the ice, and advised that the water was safe and the nothing would “nibble at our toes” in the water.

He wanted us to keep feeding wood in the fire, and explained how to use the sauna. We listened carefully to the advice to really get in to the ice water, and not just dip our toes in! Scary as it was, he said to not delay in the process of going up to our necks in 0⁰ water, as it would actually be uncomfortable only going in to our knees!

Are we crazy?

The outside temperature was minus 8⁰ C, and the sauna was at 85⁰C, so the water was actually warmer than the outside air.

Being the crazy adventure-lovers that we are, we did the prescribed four cycles of 85 degree sauna, followed by the icy dip in the arctic lake ice.

As advised, the first cycle was the worst. Our feet felt like they were burning in the icy water, the ice-coated steps and jetty were slippery and cold. Our bodies were steaming before getting in the ice, and our feet would freeze to the jetty on getting out!

The water was not deep enough to jump or dive in, but a couple of seconds immersed up to the neck was enough for anyone. By the time we got to the third ice dip, we wanted to do it again and again.

Frozen assets

When booking, we were advised that we were not allowed to wear swimsuits in the sauna. However, when we got there, we realised that not only were we recommended to wear bathing suits when in the ice, but also that the sauna cabin is right next to the main path to the frozen lake from the resort.

We started nude in the Apukka sauna, but once we put our swimsuits on for the ice pool, we realised that it would be hard to keep putting them on and taking them off.

At the last dip in the icy pool, a hotel resident called out to us from the (frozen) jetty. As we were in our bathers on our own jetty, he called out “is it cold?”. Of course it is bloody cold! It is -8 and I am standing in just my shorts, soaking wet and my feet are freezing on to the ice!

Our timeslot came to an end, so we washed in the sauna with the provided body wash (which was really hot!) and the lake water, dried off and got dressed again.

Reindeer and horses

Once we were dressed into our cold weather clothes (we are not stupid enough to last more than a couple of minutes in our swimwear in the snow!), we went to explore. We quickly noticed a small pen of Reindeer, so went to meet them.

They seemed very content, with a huge pile of hay for them to eat. The animals are large, but smaller than a horse. Their antlers were interestingly uneven – left did not match right.